Granite & Quartz Countertops in Orlando, FL | EdStone

Replacing Countertops? A Homeowner Checklist Before You Demo Anything

Person placing a tile on kitchen countertop.

New countertops can completely transform a kitchen, turning a dated space into a modern showpiece. Whether you are dreaming of cool marble, durable quartz, or warm butcher block, the excitement often overshadows the logistics. But here is the hard truth: the success of your project isn’t determined on installation day. It is determined by the prep work you do beforehand.

Failing to plan properly can lead to cracked stone, plumbing disasters, and blown budgets. Before you swing a hammer or schedule a template visit, you need a plan. This guide serves as your essential replace kitchen countertops checklist, covering everything from safety protocols to the hidden questions your installer will definitely ask.

Kitchen renovation before and after photo

Choosing Your Material: A Quick Comparison

Before we get to the demolition, you need to be 100% sure about your material choice. It affects your budget, your timeline, and whether you can DIY the project or need a pro.

MaterialDurabilityMaintenanceCost TierDIY-Friendly?Editor’s Notes
QuartzExcellentLow (No sealing)HighNoConsistent look; very heavy; best for busy families.
GraniteHighMedium (Sealing)Mid-HighNoUnique patterns; heat resistant; requires annual sealing.
LaminateMediumLowLowYesBudget-friendly; easy to scratch/burn; has come a long way in looks.
Butcher BlockMediumHigh (Oiling)MidYesWarm look; requires regular oiling; scratches can be sanded out.
MarbleLow-MidHigh (Etches/Stains)PremiumNoTimeless beauty; porous; prone to staining (patina).
Solid SurfaceHighLowMid-HighNoSeamless appearance; scratches can be buffed out; sensitive to heat.

Phase 1: Planning and Logistics

You cannot order stone just by guessing the square footage. This phase is about precision.

1. Finalize Your Sink and Faucet First

  • What to do: Buy your sink and faucet before the template date. Have them physically on-site.
  • Why it matters: The fabricators need the physical template of the sink to cut the hole precisely. They also need to know the number of holes required for your faucet and accessories (soap dispenser, air gap).
  • Common Mistake: Buying a sink that is too wide for the cabinet base. If you have a 30-inch cabinet, a 33-inch sink will not fit.

2. Check Your Cabinet Structural Integrity

  • What to do: Empty your cabinets and inspect the boxes, especially under the sink. Look for rot, water damage, or bowing.
  • Why it matters: Stone countertops are incredibly heavy. If your existing cabinets are weak or rotting, they could collapse under the weight of granite or quartz.
  • Common Mistake: Installing expensive stone on old, water-damaged cabinets. You cannot fix the cabinets later without removing the stone, which usually breaks it.

3. Plan for the “Gap”

  • What to do: Decide if you are keeping your existing tile backsplash or replacing it.
  • Why it matters: New countertops usually have a different thickness than your old ones. If you keep the old backsplash, there may be a visible gap between the new counter and the old tile.
  • Common Mistake: Assuming the new slab will slide perfectly under the old tile. It rarely happens. It is usually cleaner and safer to demo the backsplash along with the countertop.

Phase 2: The Safety and Prep Checklist

This is the most critical section of your replace kitchen countertops checklist. Safety and home protection must happen before the demolition crew arrives.

4. Safe Utility Disconnect

  • What to do: Shut off water valves under the sink. Turn off the electricity to the garbage disposal and dishwasher at the breaker panel.
  • Why it matters: When removing a countertop, plumbing lines often get jostled. You do not want a sudden leak flooding your kitchen. Live wires near metal tools are a recipe for injury.
  • Common Mistake: Relying on old shut-off valves that haven’t been turned in 20 years. Test them days before. If they leak, call a plumber to replace the valves first.

5. Dust and Debris Containment

  • What to do: Seal off the kitchen doorways with plastic sheeting and painters tape. Cover all vents/returns in the room.
  • Why it matters: Removing countertops (especially tile or grout) creates a massive amount of fine dust that will travel to your bedrooms and electronics if not contained.
  • Common Mistake: Forgetting to cover the drawers. Take the drawers out of the cabinets, or tape plastic over the drawer fronts to keep sawdust out of your silverware.

6. Protect Your Floors and Pathway

  • What to do: Lay down “Ram Board” or thick cardboard along the path from the front door to the kitchen.
  • Why it matters: Installers wear heavy steel-toed boots and carry hundreds of pounds of stone. They cannot take their shoes off. One slip can gouge your hardwood or crack a floor tile.
  • Common Mistake: Using thin drop cloths that bunch up and cause tripping hazards.

7. Lead and Asbestos Awareness

  • What to do: If your home was built before 1978, be cautious. Older laminate glue may contain asbestos, and wall paint may contain lead.
  • Why it matters: Disturbing these materials releases toxins.
  • Common Mistake: Ripping up old linoleum or sanding old paint without testing kits. If in doubt, hire a remediation pro for the demo.

Phase 3: The Install Day Sequence

The big day is here. Here is how to manage it.

8. Verify Level Cabinets

  • What to do: Before the installers put the slab down, ensure the cabinets are perfectly level. Use a long level across the tops.
  • Why it matters: Stone is rigid. If cabinets are uneven, the stone will be stressed and can crack over time. Installers can use shims, but major leveling issues need to be fixed beforehand.
  • Common Mistake: Forcing the stone down onto warped cabinets.

9. Inspect the Slab Before Glue

  • What to do: Look at the slab on the truck. Check for cracks, chips, or large pits.
  • Why it matters: Once it is glued down, it is yours. It is much harder to negotiate a return or repair after installation is complete.
  • Common Mistake: Signing the waiver without looking closely at the edges and seams.

10. The 24-Hour Wait

  • What to do: Do not hook up the plumbing for at least 24 hours after the sink is mounted to the stone.
  • Why it matters: The silicone and adhesives holding the heavy sink need time to cure. If you fill the sink with water too soon, the weight can pull the sink away from the stone, breaking the seal.
  • Common Mistake: Scheduling the plumber for the same afternoon as the countertop install.

Budget and Timeline Realities

When you see a price per square foot (e.g., “$60/sq. ft.”), remember that is rarely the final price.

Hidden Costs to Budget For:

  • Demolition and Haul Away: Pros charge extra to take your old counters to the dump.
  • Plumbing Reconnection: Most countertop installers are not plumbers. You will need to hire a plumber separately to reconnect the drain and faucet (Approx. $300–$600).
  • Backsplash Repair: If the drywall gets torn up during demo (it likely will), you need to budget for drywall mud, paint, or new tile.
  • Build-up / Subtops: 2cm stone requires a plywood subtop. 3cm stone usually goes directly on cabinets. Know which one you are buying.

Typical Timeline:

  1. Selection & Quote: 1 week.
  2. Template Appointment: 1–2 weeks after deposit.
  3. Fabrication: 1–3 weeks after template.
  4. Installation: 1 day (usually 4–8 hours).

What Your Installer Will Ask You

Be ready to answer these questions immediately to avoid delays:

  • “Where is the faucet? We need to drill the holes now.”
  • “Do you want a standard ease edge, bullnose, or beveled edge?”
  • “Are we keeping the existing dishwasher? Do we need to install a mounting bracket for it?”
  • “Is there an overhang for bar stools? (Anything over 10-12 inches usually requires steel support brackets).”

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to replace kitchen countertops?

The actual physical swap usually takes one day. However, the entire process from measuring (templating) to fabrication and final installation typically takes 2 to 4 weeks depending on the fabricator’s schedule.

Do I need a permit to replace countertops?

In most municipalities, a direct cosmetic replacement does not require a permit. However, if you are moving a sink (changing plumbing lines) or adding new electrical outlets to an island, you will likely need a plumbing or electrical permit.

Can I replace my countertop without damaging the backsplash?

It is possible, but difficult. If the new stone is thinner than the old one, you will have a gap. If it is thicker, it won’t fit. You also run the risk of cracking the bottom row of tiles during demolition. It is usually safer to plan on replacing the backsplash or at least the bottom row.

Should I paint my cabinets before or after new countertops?

Paint them after the countertops are installed. Installation involves heavy lifting and maneuvering; it is very common for installers to accidentally scuff the cabinet fronts. Painting afterwards ensures a flawless finish.

Is a replace kitchen countertops checklist really necessary for a small job?

Yes. Even a small bathroom vanity swap involves plumbing disconnection, adhesive curing times, and potential wall damage. A checklist ensures you don’t skip safety steps like turning off water valves or checking for structural support.

Can I reuse my old sink with new granite?

Yes, if it is an undermount sink that can be removed without damage. However, most stainless steel sinks are relatively inexpensive compared to the stone. Installing a scratched, old sink under a brand new $4,000 slab of quartz is generally not recommended.

Ready to Start?

Don’t let the dust scare you. With the right plan, a countertop replacement is the single most impactful upgrade you can make to your kitchen.

Step one: Measure your existing counters (length x width) to get a rough square footage.

Step two: Visit a stone yard or showroom with those numbers to get a realistic estimate.

Good luck with the renovation!

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